| THE TOWN
The full name of the town is Vejer de la Frontera, which
shows that it was one of a string of fortified towns which made up the
border between Christian Spain and Moorish Al Andalus. It is one of the
famed Pueblos blancos, the striking white towns of Andalucia which cling
to mountainous outcrops. This was an Arabic stronghold high over the plain
of the River Barbate, defending the approach to Africa from Infidels like
us. It overlooks the beautiful Cape of Trafalgar, which is about 10 kilometers
away, with splendid beaches all along the coast. Morocco hovers in the
near distance.
When Vejer became a Christian town old sartorial habits remained and until
about 25 years ago the local women still wore a large black cape, la Cobijada,
covering their bodies and faces, just like the Islamic Yashmak. This is
still the symbol of the town, although today the girls of Vejer wear very
little.
During the Civil war there was fierce fighting here when local agrarian
anarchists stormed the town, only to be beaten back, ironically by Franco's
Moorish regiments. Many anarchists were summarily thrown from the ramparts.
Today Vejer is still a rather conservative place, except during the numerous
fiestas when the anarchist side re-emerges and they go collectively nuts.
Farming is still the main employer, with olives and fighting bulls the
most important produce. During summer tourism brings work, but mainly
the men of Vejer specialise in standing around and staring, at which they
are remarkably accomplished. The town is now a national monument and does
attract its share of bemused looking people with cameras around their
necks, especially at Easter and in August when the town is busiest. Most
of the visitors though are Spanish. This is not yet a foreign tourist
town.
The locals seem largely oblivious to visitors as they go about their lives
in a deeply traditional way, doing everything, slowly, late and with a
decidedly Andalucian charm. There are a number of new restaurants and
bars, a handful of funky shops, but overall Vejer is little changed by
the modern world.
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